Crits?

Aria · 11-10-2006, 05:06 PM

This was supposed to be a great dane, but it didn't come out that way.

This is my fourth realism pic ever, so bear with me.

If anyone could tell me how to shade, please..

I'll fix the lips later and say its a j russell.

BTW, this is a picture, I don't have a scanner.

- 4 hours

- 2 hours

Novel · 11-10-2006, 05:36 PM

You can say its a norwich terrier, or is it norfolk that have the floppy ears, either way it is WAY better than anything I could ever do. GREAT JOB!

Aria · 11-10-2006, 05:43 PM

Thanks ^-^

I'm working on my first full-body aussie right now which ACTUALLY looks like an aussie. I do free lineart in school for people, but once I'm competant in realism it will be much much better. I can only do dogs though :O

***Cassiepeia*** · 11-10-2006, 06:02 PM

Firstly..you're doing a good job.

And practice makes perfect so keep going and believe me you'll find your pictures will start looking the way you want them.

As far as tips are concerned....

Always make sure the eyes are level with each other and at the same angle as the nose.

Fur should always be drawn in the direction actually grows/lays on the dog. You've done that here but you need to overlap the fur more.

Try not to use dark outlines around the shape of the dog. Use a very light outline that you can only just see and then use your shading or fur etc... to flesh it out.

Shading can be done in several ways. If you want realistic fur you can simply layer more graphite/pencil over the top. Lots of layers of realistic fur. Graphite is great because you can buy different tone pencils. The darker the pencil the softer it is so the more you'll have to sharpen it (that's another thing...you should always keep your pencil sharp). But using a darker pencil will allow you to instantly get a darker tone.

With out much layering at all.

You can also rub (using the side of the pencil tip) a light layer of graphite on the basic shape of the dog to block in different areas of tone and then go back over it with fur. This is also a quick way to get the deep tones you want.

The paper matters because the smoother the paper's surface, the less pencil it will take and the fewer layers you'll be able to draw.

You should also remember that the shapes that make up the dogs head are all 3D so you'll need to show that using tone. Studying the animal (or picture...although photos are not a great place to start when drawing because often the lighting is so bad you can't see the tones), should give you an idea of where the tones are. Squint at the animal or picture and that should blur the detail so you can just see colour and tone.

Hope that helped a little. You might like to go back and look through the basic drawing class we had. I don't know if will help but you never know.

Cass.

Novel · 11-10-2006, 06:07 PM

Wow Cass, I am so impressed. I love your knowledge of art. I come from a long line of artists.. (I have paintings by my mother, grandfather and great-grandmother) but I don't have an artistic bone in my body... Sigh... i am in such awe.

Aria · 11-10-2006, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Novel

I don't have an artistic bone in my body... Sigh... i am in such awe.

Believe me it's not a talent. I got interested in drawing anime just last year, then canines, photos (I do manipulation and retouching like a pro) and finally realism. Once I get this I'm off to watercolors

I draw for about 3 hours a day or more. You really have to work for it. I do anyway.

Aria · 11-10-2006, 06:40 PM

Cass, so far I've been learning off another site. For my crappy shading I've used used the rolled up pieces of thick paper.

As for paper, since I just started realism I'm using regular printing paper. I haven't yet had the time to get a pad. And my pencil stinks. Just a regular old pencil. It's .7mm but I have no idea what I should be using except I know I need a thicker one.

Novel · 11-10-2006, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aria

Believe me it's not a talent. I got interested in drawing anime just last year, then canines, photos (I do manipulation and retouching like a pro) and finally realism. Once I get this I'm off to watercolors

I draw for about 3 hours a day or more. You really have to work for it. I do anyway.

Thanks for the confidence boost, but I'll probably just stick to photgraphy. That I enjoy, and about one out of a 100 pics I'm actually proud of.

***Cassiepeia*** · 11-10-2006, 07:05 PM

Quote:

As for paper, since I just started realism I'm using regular printing paper. I haven't yet had the time to get a pad. And my pencil stinks. Just a regular old pencil. It's .7mm but I have no idea what I should be using except I know I need a thicker one.

You don't need a thicker pencil.

I use a .5mm mechanical pencil sometimes and I have two .7mm mechanical pencils I use on a regular basis.
Printing paper is great for practicing but try to get something with a little more 'tooth' (ie: rougher). You'll find it's much better to work on.

Try practicing individual parts of the dog like the eyes, ears, nose, paws etc... Also, try to make sure you're proportions are right.

Ack! Just give me a slap if I'm talking too much.

Hehehe

I'd love to see some of your anime work.

Cass.

Aria · 11-11-2006, 02:22 PM

No It's fine

anime here

Mind that the anime was all done with a computer mouse. I'm much better with my hand.

I got a graphite sketch book, a graphite tutorial, hb-8b soft lead pencils, and two blending stumps. I'm working on a mountain lion right now. With the new stuff, It's coming out great

Thanks for all the tips.

anaconda · 11-24-2006, 03:47 PM

Wow- 8B!!! The softest I've ever used is 5B. I'd probably break the point at every stroke, lol!

So- a couple of tips. First, when you draw, draw what's underneath. So for a dog, one circle for the chest, one for the rear end, a smaller one for the head, and a backbone that joins the lot and ends in a tail. Then draw the legs (it helps to think that for every animal they're the same, even for man; they go in a sort of zigzag shape) and add the flesh, hair and slobbery dog kisses.

Second, it's easier to draw splashes of light and shade than hair. Use the side of your magnificent 8B pencil and get going! (Oh, and send me an autograph when you're world-famous

)

I forgot to add: lovely work!! Keep it coming!!

rmci · 11-27-2006, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cassiepeia

(that's another thing...you should always keep your pencil sharp). Cass.

I prefer to use a pencil with a rounded tip for shading, not a sharpened one, even an HB

11-10-2006, 05:06 PM	#1 (permalink)
Aria Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Northeastern US Posts: 80 Rep Power: 36	Crits? This was supposed to be a great dane, but it didn't come out that way. This is my fourth realism pic ever, so bear with me. If anyone could tell me how to shade, please.. I'll fix the lips later and say its a j russell. BTW, this is a picture, I don't have a scanner. - 4 hours - 2 hours
	Last edited by Aria : 11-10-2006 at 06:36 PM.

11-10-2006, 06:02 PM	#4 (permalink)
*Cassiepeia* Chihuahua Mum Super Moderator Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: NSW, Australia Posts: 8,246 Blog Entries: 9 Rep Power: 279	Firstly..you're doing a good job. And practice makes perfect so keep going and believe me you'll find your pictures will start looking the way you want them. As far as tips are concerned.... Always make sure the eyes are level with each other and at the same angle as the nose. Fur should always be drawn in the direction actually grows/lays on the dog. You've done that here but you need to overlap the fur more. Try not to use dark outlines around the shape of the dog. Use a very light outline that you can only just see and then use your shading or fur etc... to flesh it out. Shading can be done in several ways. If you want realistic fur you can simply layer more graphite/pencil over the top. Lots of layers of realistic fur. Graphite is great because you can buy different tone pencils. The darker the pencil the softer it is so the more you'll have to sharpen it (that's another thing...you should always keep your pencil sharp). But using a darker pencil will allow you to instantly get a darker tone. With out much layering at all. You can also rub (using the side of the pencil tip) a light layer of graphite on the basic shape of the dog to block in different areas of tone and then go back over it with fur. This is also a quick way to get the deep tones you want. The paper matters because the smoother the paper's surface, the less pencil it will take and the fewer layers you'll be able to draw. You should also remember that the shapes that make up the dogs head are all 3D so you'll need to show that using tone. Studying the animal (or picture...although photos are not a great place to start when drawing because often the lighting is so bad you can't see the tones), should give you an idea of where the tones are. Squint at the animal or picture and that should blur the detail so you can just see colour and tone. Hope that helped a little. You might like to go back and look through the basic drawing class we had. I don't know if will help but you never know. Cass.
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11-24-2006, 03:47 PM	#11 (permalink)
anaconda Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Spain Posts: 410 Rep Power: 63	Wow- 8B!!! The softest I've ever used is 5B. I'd probably break the point at every stroke, lol! So- a couple of tips. First, when you draw, draw what's underneath. So for a dog, one circle for the chest, one for the rear end, a smaller one for the head, and a backbone that joins the lot and ends in a tail. Then draw the legs (it helps to think that for every animal they're the same, even for man; they go in a sort of zigzag shape) and add the flesh, hair and slobbery dog kisses. Second, it's easier to draw splashes of light and shade than hair. Use the side of your magnificent 8B pencil and get going! (Oh, and send me an autograph when you're world-famous ) I forgot to add: lovely work!! Keep it coming!!
	__________________

11-10-2006, 05:36 PM	#2 (permalink)
Novel Boxer Mom Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 4,852 Blog Entries: 1 Rep Power: 214	You can say its a norwich terrier, or is it norfolk that have the floppy ears, either way it is WAY better than anything I could ever do. GREAT JOB!

11-10-2006, 05:43 PM	#3 (permalink)
Aria Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Northeastern US Posts: 80 Rep Power: 36	Thanks ^-^ I'm working on my first full-body aussie right now which ACTUALLY looks like an aussie. I do free lineart in school for people, but once I'm competant in realism it will be much much better. I can only do dogs though :O

11-10-2006, 06:07 PM	#5 (permalink)
Novel Boxer Mom Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Madison, WI Posts: 4,852 Blog Entries: 1 Rep Power: 214	Wow Cass, I am so impressed. I love your knowledge of art. I come from a long line of artists.. (I have paintings by my mother, grandfather and great-grandmother) but I don't have an artistic bone in my body... Sigh... i am in such awe.

11-10-2006, 06:40 PM	#7 (permalink)
Aria Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Northeastern US Posts: 80 Rep Power: 36	Cass, so far I've been learning off another site. For my crappy shading I've used used the rolled up pieces of thick paper. As for paper, since I just started realism I'm using regular printing paper. I haven't yet had the time to get a pad. And my pencil stinks. Just a regular old pencil. It's .7mm but I have no idea what I should be using except I know I need a thicker one.

11-11-2006, 02:22 PM	#10 (permalink)
Aria Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Northeastern US Posts: 80 Rep Power: 36	No It's fine anime here Mind that the anime was all done with a computer mouse. I'm much better with my hand. I got a graphite sketch book, a graphite tutorial, hb-8b soft lead pencils, and two blending stumps. I'm working on a mountain lion right now. With the new stuff, It's coming out great Thanks for all the tips.

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