Chasing cyclists

[ness]

I posted this on a jack russell forum but basically got lynched so thought i'd ask you guys. Now remember Minty is my first dog so i am new to dog owning and training and am doing my best with him.

Ok now when i let Minty off at the field i take him too he's generally fine and loves to run. The thing is there is the occassional cyclist and other dogs. I take him when i know it's going to be quiet and not busy. I have been told that terriers love to chase anything that moves so he chases people on bikes. He's not aggressive or anything, he also runs after oher dogs to play. What i'd like to know is what's the best way to get him to come back when i call him?

The people on the other forum told me to keep him on the lead, but that seemed so unfair to me, they made him sound like a brat and the word obnoxious was used, which really upset me. Minty is a sweetheart and doesn't have an obnoxious bone in his body and made me feel like a bad owner. He will be going to training classes next month.

[apache2]

My border collie goes mad when bikes come past us on a walk, we mainly see bikes on roads when out but i have to look out for them in our park too as if shes loose she will chase after them barking & may possibly nip a leg on a person i suspect so i have to be very vigilant & have my eyes open wide when out weith her off leash. I think this behaviour stems from when the postman comes around on his bike, god knows why shes started going for bikes???? but she will run next to mine no problem!!!!!

[IceyBlueSibes]

Well, I do have to agree with keeping on a leash UNTIL he can be trusted to come back when you call.

I would start working on his recall. A recall is having the dog come to you when called from a distance. Start out from short distances, make him sit-stay. Take a step back, and tell him "COME" or whatever word you use. Do this a few times, and take another step back. Again, call him to you. Keep increasing the distance once he understands that you want him to come to you. If he comes before you release him, or doesn't come at all, then go back to the distance you were at and work on that distance some more. If you move to fast, they'll get a bit confused. You can purchase a longer lead to work with this, use a rope, or use a retractable (but let all of the lead out and put the lock button on). Use lots of YUMMY treats and praise him GALORE when he does come to you.

Next, move to an area where there are distractions. Go where there are bikes, but keep a distance. Remember, keep him on leash and work with him with the distractions around. Do the same as I explained above.


Keeping them on a leash is not unfair, but is better for his safety. Who's to say that one day one of the bikers he runs up to tries to hit him? Or one of the dogs attacks him? It's all to ensure the safety of your dog and others. I think what they meant by obnoxious is that not very many people like to see a dog off lead running right up to their dogs. I for one, don't like dogs running up while we're out walking because I don't know what that dog has intentions of doing, and I don't know what my dogs will do. Dogs are just like people in the sense that they won't like everyone they meet, and scary things can happen in the blink of an eye.

Carrie has taught her doberman "hault" (I think? LOL) which makes him stop dead in his tracks. Maybe she can explain to you how she did this.

This is something that can be worked with. Training is such a great way to bond with your dog! The more you train them, the more they're willing to listen to you (IMO).

Keep training sessions very fun. Use lots of yummy treats that he normally doesn't get (cheese, hot dogs, etc) or a really favorite toy of his.

You are not a bad owner. So don't feel that way. I do have to say that the other board you were on must have some awfully straight forward people. Some boards are like that.

If worst comes to worst, you can always buy a very long rope that will still allow him to run around, and you can still have control of him if he happens to see a biker or a dog he wants to run after. There's nothing wrong allowing him to socialize with other dogs, but it's always polite to ask the owner first, just incase their dog doesn't tolerate other/little dogs.

That's my 2 cents I'm sure someone else can give you some additional info. Best of luck and if you need anymore help we are more than welling to help you!

[ness]

Thanks for the advice, i have now purchased a long training lead so he will be kept on that until he learns to come back when called. Thanks for the advice

[GoldenPup]

I'd suggest using a harness with the long line, and a spring-attatchment (...links anyone...I have no idea where to get these...). You do not want him running to the end of the line and getting hurt. Ideally this won't happy...but it's a good idea to do this 'just in case'.

GoldenPup

[richnrissa]

excellent post IBS!
there are many ways, some mentioned, to allow him the 'fun' and 'freedom' of running and playing--which a JRT NEEDS to do, rambuncious as they are!, w/o leaving yourself open to attitude or tragedy.
now on to more important matters: welcome to GP and we love pictures!!!

[ness]

Thanks goldenpup, Minty has a harness as this is the only way he'll walk properly. Looking forward to the lead training.

Thank you everyone, will keep you updated with te training.
He's going to be meeting my firends new puppy soon, 12 week old lab. She's gonna be our walking buddy.

[sammy]

Trailing a long line is a great idea. I did that with both dogs when we first got them.

I only used my recall cue (SAMMY ! COME!) for good things when I was training it. If I was calling the dog to do nails or have a bath or leave the park etc I said something else or just went and got them and leashed him up.

I also did recalls for ALL of their food. Putting your dogs food all in a bowl on the ground wastes a ton of opportunities to reinforce whatever you are trying to teach and dogs think it's fun too. I measured out their daily ration and put it in a container. I tried to do as many recalls per day at home or in a place when I knew with certainty the dog would come. It only takes a minute so I'd try to get 20-30 a day. Every few times instead of a few peices of kibble, they'd get a really good treat like cheese or a little peice of meat. I started by doing recalls in the house and gradually worked up to having them come in increasingly distracting environments.

One of the best tricks I learned was to send them back as soon as they sat in front of me, gave them their treat I'd say "OK! Go play!" My dog isn't allowed to leave the sit in front position until he is released with my release cue "ok" Premack's principle / having your cake and eating it too made all the difference in the world to my first dog who would have rather gone hungry for days than miss out on an opportunity to play with another dog.

The other great trick was when I gave my dog a treat to reach down with the other hand as if you are grabbing their collar. Some dogs decide they'd like to come, grab the treat and take off. To ensure they never could do that. when they came and sat in front, I stepped on the line they were dragging, gave them the treat while touching the collar and then quickly sent them back to play.

It didn't take me too long before Sammy had as good recall as I could get. I could pull him out in full chase of a dog or a ball. He would turn on a dime and run to me. Our off leash park can be a bit tricky so that's something I work really hard on. I always want to be able to call my dogs to me wether they are with another dog, about to jump in the lake or whatever.

The nice thing is if you put the work in now and your dog gets harwired to have greart recall, even if you don't work on it for a while and they get rusty it doesn't take much to bring it back.

There's apparently a really great little book out called "really reliable recall" you can get it through www.dogwise.com . I haven't read it but have heard very good things about it. If you want a dog with rock solid, quick recall you might want to check it out.

[flyndog]

Teaching a JRT not to chase a rapidly retreating object will take time, so don't be discouraged. They were originally bred to kill bicycles (and vacuum cleaners).

[ness]

Oh yes, vaccuum cleaners, mops, and brooms. I have a new vaccuum cleaner designed for pet hairs, it's upright and Minty is fine with it on like that, BUT attach the pet hair remover to the hose and you see his brain switch on to kill mode. It's funny to talk about but when i'm trying to clean NOT FUNNY. Even polishing is hard work, he tries to snatch the duster from me LOL.